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MJT Partscaster – Candy Apple Red LEFTY


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You’re in the market for a top-end, Custom Shop level MJT Strat but you’re afraid of the crapshoot factor? I’ve been building and selling top tier MJTs for years to satisfied customers across North America. That’s because I reduce the luck factor to zero by swapping a few necks and pickups around and I let them settle for a few years.

There are ‘bluesy’ SRV type Strats galore, but they tend to be one-trick ponies. I like going for a more crisp, ‘hi-fi’ bright ‘studio’ feel.  Strats are not just for banging yet another version of Pride and Joy.   

The body is swamp ash (one of the earlier MJT ‘wildwood bodies’) with a coppery custom CAR finish I had made.  It looks bright red at dusk and under the spots, but orangey during the day. There’s a ’65 RI notched pickguard on there, but it does look killer with an orange tort (which it had for a while).  The body was closet clean w/checking when I got it, the very light relic’ing is from 5-6 years of blues club play (it’s DNA is not ‘blues’ but it definitely can handle it). The undercoat is silver, so the chips match the hardware.   

The neck has a rosewood board (started with maple, then settled on rosewood).  The swamp ash/rosewood combination is bold (and bright!) but favored by Suhr on his top end guitars. The neck is off a 2007 Fender 1962 AVRI with a 1 5/8 at the nut, 7 ¼ radius, great fretwork and slim C. Those guitars still go for 2000$+ on today’s market so you’re looking at 700 bucks+ just for this part. Plus, I just did a 150$ complete pro fret level.  Guitars I sell online come out of the box with no issues.I haven’t touched the truss rod in ages, it’s settled. The notes don’t choke out on bends. The bone nut is custom made. It’s reversed as all my lefty builds use reverse necks.  That way I can swap them with other builds and find out what the best matches are. And from a string tension point of view, I believe all necks should be reversed IMO.  

The design is hardtail (again, the bright, crisp objective) with steel saddles.  ‘Pure vintage’ doesn’t seem to be around anymore, but they are high quality parts.  The spacing is true 2 7/32, not 2 3/16.  You only get that on the very higher end CS guitars because the neck alignment has to be dead perfect. The advantage is that the strings are perfectly set over the pole pieces, as Leo intended.  Electronics are top tier stuff. The output cup is from a 70s strat copy with old screws and all.   

Now I went through half a dozen sets of pickups, all club tested, until I found some that could handle that picky swamp ash / rosewood combination.  I started with a set of original 80s Lace Sensors but the result was almost comically hi-fi.  I tried some Lollar Dirty Blondes but the bluesier edge was out of sync with the treble content.  I settled on a kit of Sheptones.  I soldered a Jimmy Vaughn wiring (the bottom tone pot cuts treble on the bridge, too) so you can tame the guitar better. The neck tone pot (the shaft) has a slight wiggle to it.  It’s the only ‘defect’ I can think of before selling. The cavities are shielded.  With the wax potted pickups this Strat is quite silent.  

The result is an incredibly smooth and slick guitar that is versatile as heck, and absolutely shines through high end pedals.  You got the point if you read this far : if you want a dark SRV type horse, this ain’t it.If you already own one of those, this is the perfect complement to still play a Strat but sound totally different.

Freshly set-up with a set of Dunlop 9s, ready to rock right out of the box.  

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